Tuesday 24 April 2018

The Colours of Oporto



I could quite easily have slept for another hour this particular morning but its a port day and my camera urges me up to the top deck.  The new cruise terminal at Lexios is considered a masterpiece of design but I far prefer the sight of the old lighthouse jutting out from the end of the pier.  The worn stone structure has so much more character than the new white bunion.

As I snap away I meet J... another solo traveller who tells me the very sad tale of her best friend back in Yorkshire.  Until 6 months ago they were constantly gadding about on adventures - by car, by train and even walking.  Then dementia hit and within months her friend had lost the ability to do everyday tasks.  In the shops she cannot use her bank card because the numbers have disappeared from her memory.  The washing machine dials prove a mystery and the computer is like a being from another planet.  J.... worries how her friend will cope whilst she is away on this 3 week cruise.

After breakfast I take the shuttle bus into town - a 10k journey taking 30 minutes or so along the banks of the River Douro.  A wonderful esplanade runs the entire length with beaches and rocky outcrops along the way.  As today is a Sunday it is busy with locals.  The drop off point in town is a park called Pc da Cordoaria and after getting my bearings head off down narrow cobbled streets - hopefully in the direction of The Ribeira, the old waterfront area with its tall, narrow, colourful buildings.  It's a steep descent down from the terracotta rooftops of the city - thank goodness I have a map - to navigate the narrow streets.
 

Past a very dilapidated building displaying intriguing artwork


Always looking back at the end of every sector so that I will be able to recognise my way back.  However, when it comes to crossing roads in Europe I am always at a loss.  I wait for the green man and then cross but just as I step out a car zooms around a corner screaming to a stop inches from my side.  I seem to recall something about vehicles being allowed to turn right (or was it left!) but as I have never been a driver it's never really sunk in.  I think the pedestrian has right of way but talk about scary. 

Thank goodness a few small souvenir shops are just beginning to open.  I retreat inside to recover and calm my nerves.  Tiles, wall plaques and pottery are the main items on offer - wonderful artwork.  In one shop I marvelled at the sculptured figures so full of character.  How I would love the very aged lady exposing her fragile skin to the sun without a care in the world about her sagging figure.  But she was just too heavy for my suitcase.  Instead I opted for a delicately painted tile of a magic mushroom as this seems to be the theme of this cruise  It will remind me of my morning in Oporto and more importantly it was the only RED tile in the shop - just right for my travel themed kitchen back home.

Eventually I reach the waterfront where the cafes are just beginning to open.  Its alive with tourists making for the ferries or the old trams.  
With the steep hills in town I'm not too certain how popular the bicycle tours are!

After a 30 minute amble its time to make my way back UP those hills.  Frequent stops are called for to catch my breath.  
At last I'm back at Pc da Cordoaria and spot the shuttle buses on the other side - just time to snap a picture of some very jolly fellows laughing their way through life.


During the afternoon I had intended heading to the beach for an hour but having sat down for ten minutes after lunch I fell asleep and woke up 2 hours later.  All this fresh air is really tiring.

My lasting memory of Oporto will (very strangely) be of the colourful roof tiles abundant with growth.




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