Colombo - and memories of Yesteryear

The year was 1978 and my first Home Leave from Hong Kong was due.  Stopovers were allowed so what a fool I would have been not to take advantage of this.  The previous year had been spent organising the three week holiday which was to consist of a few days in Colombo staying at the old colonial Galle Face Hotel; a week on the island of Furanifushi in the Maldives; and then a two week tour of the island of Sri Lanka.  All of this was to be accomplished as a solo traveller and not part of a tour group - it proved to be the holiday which sparked my sense of adventure!

The grand old lady known as the Galle Face Hotel had seen better days but the building oozed character with lofty rooms and sweeping staircases. 

Her position at the end of Galle Face Green was second to none and with the windows open the waves of the mighty Indian Ocean could be heard crashing onto the beach.

I soaked up the atmosphere of its colonial past imagining the travellers who might have broken their journeys here - perhaps on their way to tea plantations in the Hill Country, or perhaps on their way to postings in Hong Kong, Singapore or the Straits Settlements.  Without the digital cameras of today my amateur attempts at photography did not stand the test of time and for years I have wanted to return to capture some pictures which will help refresh my memory in the years to come.  But the civil war and tsunamis tore the beautiful island apart.  The 21st. Century has seen peace return and the "Teardrop of India" is regenerating.  And so came my chance to return - albeit for just one day on a cruise ship.

When excitement reigns sleep proves difficult.  5am may seem a ridiculous time to rise but why lie in bed when there is a moonlit deck a few steps away from the cabin door?  With coffee cup in hand and cameras slung around neck a ghostly figure tiptoes onto the deck.  But I was not the only early riser - on the far side in "Smoker's Corner" a couple of dark images can just about be seen.  Gradually, as dawn breaks, others appear and suddenly I find myself in conversation with a chap who I gradually come to realise was a "rags to riches" professional footballer - that was back in the day.  These days he entertains himself and others by giving talks about his career and the people he has met.

The port gradually emerges through the early morning haze:

My first stop once alighting from the shuttle bus into town was to get my bearings within the Fort District.  The clock tower proved a useful landmark as I wandered up and down streets trying to rid myself of the constant stream of gentleman wanting to take me to "the once a year Relic of the Tooth ceremony".  Of course this was all a ruse, they were just trying to get me to hire them as a guide for the day. 

 Tuk tuk drivers were also everywhere touting for trade:

Having found a friendly money changer and obtained a small amount of Sri Lankan rupees I was then able to take a short tea-break in the Pagoda Tearooms (established in 1864) which could be found on the ground floor of the De Mel Building.

It was dark inside with traditional ceiling fans circulating the air - at least what there was of it.  I enjoyed a fudge and nut slice alongside my cup of black Sri Lankan tea.  The cost?  Less than £1 !!!

Then I set off on my main mission - to rediscover the Galle Face.  Oh my joy, standing at the top of Galle Face Green and seeing that beautiful old hotel at the far end.  Yes, it now has unsightly tower blocks rising up behind but the hotel itself looks just as it should - as if it has been there forever. 

A party of schoolchildren were enjoying themselves on the Green and some boys were having fun flying kites.

Soft drink and snack sellers were opening up their booths

When I made it to the Galle Face Hotel my hair was dripping wet from the heat and I looked less than elegant.  However, my mission included experiencing the inside of the hotel again - just seeing it from the outside would not be enough.  The huge doors were held open for me and an extremely beautiful lady in exquisite sari stepped forward and asked if she could be of assistance.  I felt as if I should have been in one of my beaded evening gowns rather than white linen trousers and t-shirt with a straw hat perched on my head!  I asked whether I might have a cold drink or tea in one of the bars - most certainly.  I was led through to the Traveller's Bar which looked out over the Terrace.  This is just where I had wanted to be - large comfy chairs with the walls adorned with photos of some of the famous (or perhaps - infamous) who had patronised the hotel in eras long ago.   I felt as if there should have been a photo of me tucked away in some small dark corner!

I thoroughly enjoyed my 45 minute break in these salubrious surroundings and am now as sure as I can be that I will have some memories to take into my dotage.  Perhaps the most vivid memory of the hotel itself will be of the entrance terrace -  I have to admit to being quite proud of this photo.

The afternoon was spent shopping in the Government run Laksala Store where I found a delightful Sri Lankan gentleman to take home with me.  I hasten to add that this is purely a picture which will adorn a space in the hallway of my little bungalow in Worle - but he will remind me of a beautiful day in Colombo.

The evening was rounded off with a display of dancing by a local group who came aboard Aurora to entertain us.  This was the fantastic Peacock Dance: