Port Victoria, Island of Mahe, Seychelles

For those who love beaches in extremely hot climates with excessively high humidity then this will be the place for you.  For myself a day at the beach is never a considered option as I would burn up in a matter of seconds. All of P&O excursions at this location entailed many hours in the sun either on a catamaran or on a beach so I decided to save my money and have a wander around the very petite city of Port Victoria by myself.

We were told that it was a 10 minute walk from the ship into the city centre.  Walking an average of 4 miles per day back home I consider myself to be pretty fit but the walk took me 20 minutes and by the time I arrived at the silver Clock Tower I was dripping with perspiration.

I took a few moments rest beside the beautiful water fountain graced by a very small statue of none other than Queen Victoria.

Apparently the original fountain was donated in 1900 to celebrate the 60th. anniversary of Victoria's reign.  The current statue is a replacement dating from 1993 to celebrate Queen Elizabeth's 40 year reign.  I might add that I had my own bottle of water so did not have to test whether the rather cracked structure did actually dispense crystal liquid refreshment.

Rested and refreshed I set off to explore the town. 

Stagnet nullah's everywhere:

A colourful Hindu Shrine here;

Statues of creatures great and small there:

But most of all nature at it's best, producing wonderful colourful blooms:

Not to mention a ?heron relaxing in the waterways (forgive me but recognising birds is not a speciality!)

I did venture into a few local shops but inside they were dark, dank and dismal and none tempted me to part with my hard earned cash. However, a few stalls set up beside the ship did provide some vibrant cotton sarongs:

The local people did not have any desire to serve the "people off the ship" and the whole town had an air of delapidation.  This could not come close to the S.E. Asian ports that we had visited and of the lovely people we had met to date.

The overriding memory of the day will be of the smell of fish, fish and more fish.  When I returned to the ship the smell had even pervaded the air-conditioning system so that all I could smell within the cool cabin was MORE FISH! 

To say that I was relieved when we pushed off from the berth at 5.30 pm to the strains of "Rule Brittania" at the sailaway party is an understatement.  Everyone looks for something different in a port.  For myself I have no desires to visit the Seychelles ever again.

I wonder what Mauritius will have to offer.

 

Colombo - and memories of Yesteryear

The year was 1978 and my first Home Leave from Hong Kong was due.  Stopovers were allowed so what a fool I would have been not to take advantage of this.  The previous year had been spent organising the three week holiday which was to consist of a few days in Colombo staying at the old colonial Galle Face Hotel; a week on the island of Furanifushi in the Maldives; and then a two week tour of the island of Sri Lanka.  All of this was to be accomplished as a solo traveller and not part of a tour group - it proved to be the holiday which sparked my sense of adventure!

The grand old lady known as the Galle Face Hotel had seen better days but the building oozed character with lofty rooms and sweeping staircases. 

Her position at the end of Galle Face Green was second to none and with the windows open the waves of the mighty Indian Ocean could be heard crashing onto the beach.

I soaked up the atmosphere of its colonial past imagining the travellers who might have broken their journeys here - perhaps on their way to tea plantations in the Hill Country, or perhaps on their way to postings in Hong Kong, Singapore or the Straits Settlements.  Without the digital cameras of today my amateur attempts at photography did not stand the test of time and for years I have wanted to return to capture some pictures which will help refresh my memory in the years to come.  But the civil war and tsunamis tore the beautiful island apart.  The 21st. Century has seen peace return and the "Teardrop of India" is regenerating.  And so came my chance to return - albeit for just one day on a cruise ship.

When excitement reigns sleep proves difficult.  5am may seem a ridiculous time to rise but why lie in bed when there is a moonlit deck a few steps away from the cabin door?  With coffee cup in hand and cameras slung around neck a ghostly figure tiptoes onto the deck.  But I was not the only early riser - on the far side in "Smoker's Corner" a couple of dark images can just about be seen.  Gradually, as dawn breaks, others appear and suddenly I find myself in conversation with a chap who I gradually come to realise was a "rags to riches" professional footballer - that was back in the day.  These days he entertains himself and others by giving talks about his career and the people he has met.

The port gradually emerges through the early morning haze:

My first stop once alighting from the shuttle bus into town was to get my bearings within the Fort District.  The clock tower proved a useful landmark as I wandered up and down streets trying to rid myself of the constant stream of gentleman wanting to take me to "the once a year Relic of the Tooth ceremony".  Of course this was all a ruse, they were just trying to get me to hire them as a guide for the day. 

 Tuk tuk drivers were also everywhere touting for trade:

Having found a friendly money changer and obtained a small amount of Sri Lankan rupees I was then able to take a short tea-break in the Pagoda Tearooms (established in 1864) which could be found on the ground floor of the De Mel Building.

It was dark inside with traditional ceiling fans circulating the air - at least what there was of it.  I enjoyed a fudge and nut slice alongside my cup of black Sri Lankan tea.  The cost?  Less than £1 !!!

Then I set off on my main mission - to rediscover the Galle Face.  Oh my joy, standing at the top of Galle Face Green and seeing that beautiful old hotel at the far end.  Yes, it now has unsightly tower blocks rising up behind but the hotel itself looks just as it should - as if it has been there forever. 

A party of schoolchildren were enjoying themselves on the Green and some boys were having fun flying kites.

Soft drink and snack sellers were opening up their booths

When I made it to the Galle Face Hotel my hair was dripping wet from the heat and I looked less than elegant.  However, my mission included experiencing the inside of the hotel again - just seeing it from the outside would not be enough.  The huge doors were held open for me and an extremely beautiful lady in exquisite sari stepped forward and asked if she could be of assistance.  I felt as if I should have been in one of my beaded evening gowns rather than white linen trousers and t-shirt with a straw hat perched on my head!  I asked whether I might have a cold drink or tea in one of the bars - most certainly.  I was led through to the Traveller's Bar which looked out over the Terrace.  This is just where I had wanted to be - large comfy chairs with the walls adorned with photos of some of the famous (or perhaps - infamous) who had patronised the hotel in eras long ago.   I felt as if there should have been a photo of me tucked away in some small dark corner!

I thoroughly enjoyed my 45 minute break in these salubrious surroundings and am now as sure as I can be that I will have some memories to take into my dotage.  Perhaps the most vivid memory of the hotel itself will be of the entrance terrace -  I have to admit to being quite proud of this photo.

The afternoon was spent shopping in the Government run Laksala Store where I found a delightful Sri Lankan gentleman to take home with me.  I hasten to add that this is purely a picture which will adorn a space in the hallway of my little bungalow in Worle - but he will remind me of a beautiful day in Colombo.

The evening was rounded off with a display of dancing by a local group who came aboard Aurora to entertain us.  This was the fantastic Peacock Dance:

Malacca - and the yellow submarine

 

Malacca was a tender port i.e. where passengers are ferried ashore by either the ship's lifeboats or by local boats.   Nha Trang had been such a port and there we were berthed some 5 miles out.  No local boats were available (or perhaps P&O were not willing to pay enough to hire them) so four of Aurora's lifeboats were used.

Each carried approx 60 people and all the tour groups had to be ferried ashore before the independent passengers.  Having obtained my tender ticket (No 263) at 8.15 am it was two and a half hours before my number was called and I did not set foot in the city itself until 11.30.  I had virtually lost the will to live by that time so it is no surprise that the day was doomed.  All those who had experiened this unmitigated disaster prayed that today's tender operation would go a little smoother and a lot quicker.

Our arrival into Malacca was delayed by one hour but we were assured that tender tickets would start being issued at 8am as normal.  This time I was in the queue 10 minutes before the allotted hour - then at 7.55 one of the Purser's team appeared.  She said something to those at the front of the queue but those of us a little further back could not hear what was being said.  The Kiwi chap in front of me immediately went into anger mode and said that if they decided not to issue tickets until 9am then there would be hell to pay.  That lighted the spark - everyone around me went into anger mode.  I ended up having to act as peacemaker by making my way to the front of the queue ("what is that woman doing - is she trying to jump the queue?" scenario!) and enquiring what had actually been said.  Of course she had never mentioned 9am at all so I was able to return and quell the mounting riot. I am now known as the Peacemaker Lady!

But enough about moans and groans.  Today local boats HAD been provided and as these carried a few more people than Aurora's lifeboats I found myself ashore at 9.15.  This is the boat which ferried us into Malacca - it reminded us all of a yellow submarine!

The local tri-shaw riders were out in force and I was surrounded - "Show you the sights, Madam?". 

 

I had to be really insistent that I wanted to walk and thankfully they melted away as quickly as they had appeared - unlike in Cochin a few years ago where the pesty men ruined my whole day. 

For some reason our port information leaflet for this city did not come with a map so I really was left to follow my nose.  However, I love meandering through back streets taking photos so it really was no hardship.  My very favourite tropical shrub- frangipani was in full flower.

 

A fast food booth here

A water seller there

 

Really lovely friendly people

I soon found myself in China Town with incredible old buildings which oozed character

And tranquil waterways

But the temperature was up in the 30s, humidity at 96%, and I was burning up with fever and my head streaming with cold.  A place to sit and recover was required.  It was then that I fell upon a quiet, shady garden area. 

I sat and rested for a while and then noticed a sign at the end of the garden stating "public toilet" - great just what I needed.  To my surprise the Lady's was fitted out with European style pedestal loos - the Gods were smiling on me today.  As in HK one on the entrance walls was planted with bamboo.
On leaving I was stopped by a gentleman sitting at a table which had a sign "50c for toilet".  I am certain he had not been there when I entered!!  Well, this was my first stop of the day.  I had not as yet found anything that I wanted to buy so the smallest note in my purse was 50 Ringgit (about £8).  Oh dear this brought back memories of a similar situation which I had encountered in Shanghai in 2009.  At that time the little man guarding the loos was so exasperated that he let me in free of charge - but I did return later in the day and gave him ALL my loose change.  He was well pleased.  The gentleman in Malacca was not to be put off quite so easily - he virtually examined every note in my purse.  Oh dear, I do like to pay my way but what is one to do?  Another local gentleman came to my rescue and pulling out a wad of notes he changed my 50 Ringgit into much smaller notes and coins.  Loo fee paid! 

I had another hour wandering the streets but then the fever took it's toll and I was forced to return to the ship.  Here she is anchored in the bay (through the very dirty windows of the local boat).