Friday 28 December 2012

Christmas Cruise 2012 - The Morning Mists of Gothenburg


It was 9.30am before Oceana berthed at Gothenburg in Sweden.  I'd been able to watch our approach from my balcony as we glided gently through the archaepeligo of tiny islands.  It was FREEZING cold, quite literally, and even by the time we docked the temperature had only reached 0 degrees.  But it was the sort of morning I love - cold and crisp with a hint of magic in the air.  Oh, if only it had been snowing - but then I mustn't expect too much.  I filled my tummy with a huge bowl of porridge sprinkled liberally with sunflower seeds, flaked almonds and a trickle of maple syrup.  Now I was ready to start the day.

An extra layer of clothes was called for so over everything else I donned a large duvet type waistcoat which I'd bought on my last trip to Hong Kong.  The new angora hat which I had found in Bruges completed the outfit.  I skipped down the gangway and jumped in front of the ships photographers who were standing there shivering with cold - then it was onto the shuttle bus for the 30 minute journey into the centre of town.  My lasting impression of that drive will be one of snowdrops - not flowers decorating the banks but huge street lights with lampshades which looked just like the flowers of those little bulbs.  Quite how these strange images and ideas pop into my mind I have no idea.

As we drove to our "drop point" the driver pointed out the main shopping district near King Gustav Square and then the major department store.  We alighted a little further along the street.  The shopping district did nothing to entice me so I headed off in the opposite direction to a small park by the side of a narrow canal.  The canal was totally frozen over, hurrah, at last I felt as if I was in a Scandinavian country - but, cripes, the cobbled pathway was also frozen and my damn boots which I thought would be slip proof were far from it.  I skidded and slid all over the place.  Walking was going to be very difficult - the last thing I wanted to do was to slip and end up breaking a leg !!  I ventured on very gingerly but thankfully when I reached the footpaths within the park I found they were of a rough tarmac and just a little easier to walk on. 

After 45 minutes or so I found myself opposite that main department store which had been pointed out to us and there on the ground floor was a coffee shop.  Hot chocolate was definitely the order of the day and in here it came with marshmallows - how decadent did I feel !  Purchasing a drink had the dual purpose of providing me with some much needed change in order to use the loo - yes, even in the department store a coin was necessary to use the facilities.  After the hot drink I headed off - here was the sign to the Toilett and the first door was clearly marked in both Swedish and English - it was the Men's.  I took a few more steps towards the next door and expected to see Ladies after the Swedish word but it said Knivven.  Oh dear, was this the Ladies? Was it a store cupboard? Was it something else?  I had no idea but I had no option but to push the door and see.  I've had very embarrassing incidents in the past when I've walked into a broom cupboard etc. instead of the required loo so anything is possible when I'm left on my own!!  When I peeked inside, thankfully, I found a queue of ladies and as there was a queue I didn't need the little coin because as one lady came out she held the door open for the next.  Very courteous.

Now in a comfortable state I headed off once more in search of adventure.  This time I went in the opposite direction along the little canal and found myself at the entrance to Tradgardsforeningen (The Garden Society).  The small iron gate was pushed open a few inches and a sign indicated that the garden was open until 1700 hours.  I entered and within a few minutes found myself in a Magical Misty world.  It was one of those mists which gently swirls around a few feet off the ground giving everything a magical appearance.  I glanced towards the trees - bare of leaves - and saw the winter sun wrapped in another icy mist.  It was desperately trying to break through but the ice had it in its grip.  This was a photographer's paradise - but I'm only a "would be" photographer so how on earth was I going to capture these visions of loveliness.  I wandered around in a trance taking photo after photo.  Would they convey what I had seen - the young mothers with pushchairs catching up on news after the Christmas break - the family huddled up in winter clothes heading off home - the incredibly beautiful metal flowers setting off the winter grass - the eerie statues in the mist.  Oh so many wonderful sights.

It is sights like this which make holidays SO enjoyable and so memorable.  This ranks alongside the very best I have such as the sun dawning on beautiful Langkawi; climbing the great wall of China; standing beneath those wonderful Egyptian pyramids; wandering around the Valley of the Kings in scorching heat; and not to forget the exquisite turquiose colours of Guam.

I headed back to the ship in a daze.  I had only seen a tiny portion of this lovely city but it has made a lasting impression on me.  After lunch I returned to my cabin to rest my legs for a few minutes - but the tiredness caught up with me and I drifted off to sleep.  The next thing I knew it was 5pm and time to shower and dress for dinner.  It was Curry Night in The Plaza and there was no way I was going to resist the Chicken Tikka Masala and all the trimmimgs.  I would leave my fellow dinner companions to sample the everyday fare in the formal surrounds of The Adriatic Restaurant.  What a delicious curry and it was followed by a hot pudding from the Kerala district in Southern India.  I can't remember the name of the dish but it was vermicelli & cashew nuts cooked in coconut milk infused with cardamon.  Every mouthful was like a little bit of heaven.  The chef was delighted when I told him how good it was !!

So just one more day at sea before another lovely cruise comes to an end at Southampton.

Wednesday 26 December 2012

Christmas Cruise 2012 - Copenhagen, the City of David and the Little Mermaid


P & O have organised a shuttle bus service at this port.  It's about a 30 - 40 minute walk into town so having the option of jumping onto a shuttle bus is much appreciated.  The temperature here is very much colder - down to 3 Celsius - so I added a few more layers today.  Again I was one of the first down the gangway but my fellow passengers were none to happy when they heard that all the shops in town were closed because it was Boxing Day.  What did they expect !  The bus dropped us at Kings Square and I headed off towards the upper canal which I hoped would provide a few photo opportunities.  I thought it an absolute privilege to be given the opportunity of walking the streets whilst they were deserted instead of being packed with shoppers.

I spent an hour walking along the canal path and was delighted to see that the water was just beginning to freeze.  Ducks could be seen sitting on small ice flows instead of paddling about in the water.  I suppose in a few more weeks the entire canal could be frozen.  I shared the path with a few joggers desperate to shake off the pounds which they must have added to their weight on Christmas Day.  Apart from that everywhere was deserted.

It was back to Oceana for lunch - another chicken curry which I just can't get enough of.

In the afternoon I decided to take the shuttle into Town and then make my way back to the ship via the walkway along the front.  It was still very cold but the walk proved refreshing and invigorating.  As I turned one corner I was greeted with the most delightful sight of a fully naked David declaring to the world that this was his place.  He welcomed the female tourists who seemed to delight in standing at his feet to have their photos taken with him.  I stood patiently, knowing that if I waited long enough I would get David all to myself for just a few minutes.  The wait was well worth it.

Further along I came to St. Alban's Anglican Church, perched on the side of small canal, and still further on was the sight that everyone comes to Copenhagen to see - the Little Mermaid.  She is tiny - as all the best things in life are - but she glistened provocatively on her rock and as the breeze caressed my ear I heard her whisper "be patient little butterfly".


Tuesday 25 December 2012

Christmas Cruise 2012 - Amsterdam, City of Cycles, Canals and Sin



Again the day dawned wet and windy but that was not going to stop me rushing down the gangplank as I was ready for another adventure in yet another city.  I picked up a map in the Cruise Terminal and enquired where I was in relation to the city centre.  The way into Town was pointed out to me - along the front, turn left at Central Station, under the bridge, turn right and from there I could go in any direction I wanted.  Off I set at a brisk pace.

I got to the designated spot and wondered what direction to head in.  There were a couple of very large thoroughfares and one very narrow, small road.  Why take the major roads when there is a tantalising narrow passageway - that always seems to be my motto and once again perhaps I should have thought twice before heading off into the unknown.  It was a really interesting little street and those that lived there seemed to be just waking up to start their day.  There were little souvenir shops here and there, a shop with super Venetian Masks and a very lovely lingerie shop.  Then I started noticing the sex shops and by the time I got to "Durty Nelly's Irish Pub" I realised that I had walked slap bang into the centre of the Red Light District. Cripes, no wonder I was getting some peculiar looks.  I took the next turning on the right and headed out into the main thoroughfare and back to normality.

I really wanted to head for the canals to take some photos so headed off down other side streets and across bridges.  There were bicycles absolutely everywhere.  Every single bridge and canalside walk was full of them - all chained up ready for their owners to come and claim them.  In London they would have been nicked in no time at all.  Bicycles with large baskets on the front were also in abundance and many of these were used by mother's for transporting their children around.  It was quite fascinating just standing at a corner and watching how different life was here to that in the UK.

It was back to the ship for a quick bite of lunch and then I headed out for another couple of hours walking the streets of Amsterdam.  I headed for the canal area again but this time I noticed that curtains in the basement flats had been pulled back.  I was well away from the Red Light District by now but would you believe it - the windows contained ladies dressed in their sexy undies trying to tempt their next client of the day.  When we had docked this morning  our Captain had said that the Ladies of the Night also operated during the day - but I hadn't expected to fall across it so easily!

Another very satisfying and tiring day for this would be photographer.

Christmas Cruise 2012 - The Naked Ladies of Bruges


The day dawned wet and windy as Oceana berthed at Zeebrugga.  I hopped down the gangway at 9.30 and headed for the coach which was to take me into the city for the "Bruges on your own" excursion - a 7 hour day.  I was part of Tour Group No 11 and donned the necessary sticker as I boarded.  Our guide was Vivienne and although her only duty was to drop us off in the city centre and give us strict instructions on the time we were to meet for our homeward journey she went a step further - Vivienne actually gave us our own 30 minute mini guide within the medieval city which was extremely useful in helping me to get my bearings.

Then we were on our own and I headed straight for an oldie worldie patisserie on the main market square.  I treated myself to a hot chocolate which came with an inch of cream on the top!  The last time I had cream was in the Blue Mountains in Australia in 2009 so this was a real treat.

The rain held off for a little in the afternoon and I took myself off for a walk along the canals which was really relaxing.  I crossed one bridge filled with crowds of people all looking down into the murky canal.  Had somebody fallen in?  No - I discovered that it was a Christmas event where those who were foolhardy enough went for a winter's swim in the freezing cold water.  The Serpentine swim would be our equivalent.  I then headed for the markets and mooched around the stalls.  To my delight I found that lovely hats were on sale at some of the stalls.  I had a great 15 minutes trying them all on before deciding on a cool green number! 

The courtyard of The Belfry was my next stop because I knew this was one of the few places which had a public loo (apart from visiting yet another patisserie and having another hot chocolate).  To my surprise on entering the courtyard I was met with the sight of some 20 little naked ladies all looking skyward.  What an artistic display.  I had much fun with my camera and wondered what the ladies were thinking and why they were looking skyward  -  in my mind they were thinking "One day my prince will come"!

On the way back to the square where I was to pick up the coach I stumbled across a local nativity parade.  It was wonderful – the townsfolk all dressed up and parading along.  The shepherds had a huge flock of woolly sheep which kept trying to dart off the road into the crowd, then came the Three Kings on very large sturdy carthorses, then came Joseph, Mary and the little baby.  They were followed by what I presume where the Town’s Burgers and the procession ended with a tractor pulling a trailer on which was an old man playing what I can only describe as a “fence” of bells.  It was really very, very good and quite unexpected.

I was back at the meeting point rather early so wandered round the shops in the square.  To my delight I found a boutique shop specialising in hats.  Oh dear this really is a weakness of mine.  Another 30 minutes spent trying on hats and this time I was tempted by a little dark blue number in angora wool - a LOT more expensive than the creation I had found in the market.

And so it was back to the ship - cold, wet and tired but very satisfied with the day