The bow of the ship was crowded at dawn as Oceana glided up the Tagus River and under the April 25th. Bridge into Lisbon. I had been really excited in April 2009 when I had sailed into this port for the first time on Arcadia. This time I knew what to expect but it was still a thrill wondering whether the highest point of the ship really would pass underneath without hitting anything! We passed through safely but then for some reason did experience minor problems when it came to tying up at Quay do Tobaco.
This morning I needed to head off to the western part of the city in search of the Jardim do Estrela where apparently the English Cemetery could be found. Trying to pick up the names of the tiny streets on a tourist map is virtually an impossibility so I just walked west along the promenade hoping that at some point I would be able to identify a main road on the map. Old trams whizzed by me and at one point I heard the strains of “Jingle Bells”. I looked up to see one of the trams being driven by Santa himself – the tram was full of young children having a whale of a time.
Eventually I reached a train station and having managed to locate this on the map I was then able to head off uphill towards the Basilica dos Estrela and the Gardens. On the way I passed the main Government buildings and to my horror noticed that there was a large demonstration in progress in the square outside. Police were stationed at every street corner and I began to worry that perhaps they might close the roads off as had been the case in Athens. I pushed the thought to the back of my mind – lets try to find the cemetery first.
I struggled on uphill and there before me was the Basilica with the entrance to the gardens just opposite. The gardens were very peaceful and I wandered round them about three times before admitting to myself that the cemetery was not to be found. A group of cleaners stood leaning on their brooms and chatting so I wandered over and with my very best Portuguese accent asked for “Cemeterio dos Ingleses”. For once somebody understood my question and I was immediately directed outside the garden and across the road.
I stood outside the high walls and looked at a sign indicating that I had found the Anglican Church of St. George and the English Cemetery. Thank goodness I had come straight from the ship and not left it until this afternoon for I noticed that the opening times were only from 10am to 1pm and that the cemetery was closed completely on a Saturday. On entering I found myself in a cemetery shaded by trees and abundant vegetation. The sections were surrounded by neatly trimmed box hedges and the colours of autumn were everywhere.
The cemetery was far too large for me to photograph all the graves but I did take pictures of the some of the very old inscriptions. When I return to the UK perhaps I may find some interesting stories to relate about the English merchants in Lisbon who lie buried here. For researchers who may follow in my footsteps in the future it is worth noting that this particular cemetery is provided with toilet facilities. Another fact worthy of note is that the No. 28 tram from central Lisbon stops right outside the Basilica and Gardens – certainly better than undertaking the 1 ½ hour walk as I had done !
I am pleased to report that the police had not closed off any roads and I was able to return to the ship for lunch with no problems. In the afternoon I wandered into the main square and purchased a couple of wonderful scarves at a very reasonable price. I was continually aware of my camera and bag as back in 2009 this was the one port of call where pickpockets had been rife. Passports, wallets and handbags had all been targetted which was such a shame.
As we sailed out of Lisbon the Commodore gave us news that the weather was set to deteriorate for our remaining voyage to Southampton. Boy, was he right. As I write this we have experienced 48 hours of gale force winds and the Bay of Biscay has done what it is famous for – it tossed this ship about all over the place. Forget everything you read about these large modern ships being fitted with stabilisers and therefore not being subject to extremes of movement in rough seas. True, stabilisers are fitted. True that they do reduce the sidewards roll of the ship. However, they do nothing to stop the pitch from bow to stern - and reducing the sidewards roll is not the same as preventing it altogether. As I lay in bed last night the movement was so severe that wine glasses came flying from one end of the cabin to the other, just missing my head. Clock and spectacles were thrown to the floor from the bedside table and I just managed to catch a glass of water preventing that too from being catapulted into the air. I donned my travel sickness wrist bands !!
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