Sunday 27 November 2011

The Magical Mystery Cruise - Oceana


Why have I called this the Magical Mystery Cruise?  Quite simply because at the time of embarkation I was not at all certain of where we were going to end up.  Months ago the second port of call, Tripoli in Libya, had been replaced by Alexandria in Egypt.  This was due to the troubles that were being experienced in Libya at that time.  Two weeks before departure I was informed that the ship was no longer going to be able to call at Ashdod in Israel – this time due to the troubled situation in Syria.  Then, three days before departure, I turned on the news to be greeted with the sight of riots in Alexandria and Cairo.  I tried to tell myself that this was just going to be a “storm in a teacup” but as the hours wore on it was apparent that the situation was getting worse and worse.  I tried to imagine myself viewing those magical pyramids with the sound of tear gas being fired in the background.  I tried to imagine myself wandering through the streets of Alexandria in search of the Chatby Cemeteries whilst rioters sped past me.  Neither were very happy nor very practical thoughts.  P & O were obviously going to have to replace the stops at both Alexandria and Port Said with other ports of call – but where ?  As I embarked I – and all the other passengers – had no idea at all what the final itinerary was going to be !

This is my first time on Oceana and she is certainly a lovely ship – about the same size as Arcadia but with a beautiful atrium rising up in the centre from Deck 5 to Deck 8.  The buffet style restaurant is The Plaza on Deck 14 and this is situated at the bow with the most incredible views out across the sea.  As always my very favourite part of the ship is The Prom Deck.  It is here, early in the morning and late at night, that I am able to get my exercise.  3.2 laps of the prom equate to one mile and on sea days I like to do two miles morning and evening.  When it is deserted it is the one place on board that evokes the feel of the old P & O liners which “back in the day” plied the route from UK to Hong Kong. If I squint my eyes up I can imagine those passengers from the early 1900s boarding with their leather suitcases and trunks adorned with hotel labels from exotic lands.  The ladies in their wonderful hats and fur wraps, the gentlemen in their tweeds.  Their feet would have stood on deck boards just the same as this.  They would have looked out at the vast ocean from the Prom Deck just as I do.  Here are the markings for Deck Quoits & Shuffleboard – just as they have always appeared. 

In 1909 Ellen Mary Hayes Peck wrote in her travel diary:   

Two hundred and fifty more passengers were added to the steamer list at Marseilles and henceforth the vessel was to be taxed to her utmost capacity.  Most of the passengers ere en route for a five weeks voyage to Australia, many of them were friends, and a general spirit of jollity prevailed, the decks presenting the appearance of a seaside veranda, with their tables, lounging-chairs, work baskets, and toys.  A sports committee was at once formed and games of all kinds were played (always for prizes) while a concert, dances and bridge enlivened the evening hours.

After a rather boring few hours traversing the Suez Canal she continued:

But if Nature was dull and lifeless, there was no lack of jollity on board the steamer; for the passengers were mostly English, and there were constant games or other devices for “killing time”, in which the English as a nation are so proficient.

It is just the same on board in the 21st. century.  During the day deck games abound, lecturers expound on a variety of subjects, art, craft & dancing classes are held and the mysteries of digital cameras are explained.  Of course many just want to do nothing and that is also very exceptable.  In the evening there are classical concerts, pop concerts and musical shows – and of course there is still a Bridge Room for those who wish to play. 

During our first night at sea we hit rough weather as we approached the Bay of Biscay and half the passengers were confined to their cabins for that first full day.  I donned my wrist bands designed to prevent sea sickness and was able to explore the ship at leisure.

It was on our second day at sea that the Captain made the announcement that we had all been expecting – on the advice of the Foreign Office our calls to both Alexandria and Port Said had been cancelled.  I waited in anticipation to hear what the replacement ports would be.  I was not disappointed to hear that we would instead be visiting Valletta in Malta and Kusadasi in Turkey.  But before these intriguing places comes Cadiz, the oldest continuously inhabited town in the Western World with a history dating back 3000 years.  Watch this space !

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