Sunday 27 November 2011

The Magical Mystery Cruise - Cadiz , The Cup of Silver


I was up on deck at 6.45am to watch our arrival into Cadiz.  It was quite chilly but I nestled snugly inside my padded waistcoat with hood up to protect my ears from the strong winds.  The Cathedral and several churches were illuminated and stood out brilliantly against the bluish purple blackdrop which was the dawn sky.  As the sun rose over the horizon so my anticipation mounted.  The city looked every bit as I had imagined it – a jumble of low square white washed houses interspersed with tall watch towers of varying designs.  I could sense the Moorish feel even at a distance.

As soon as we berthed I was off down the gangplank to explore. I hoped to find the Tavira Tower which I understood was one of the few watchtowers that was open to the public and which apparently offered outstanding views of the city.  I knew roughly which direction to head in but I don’t think a map has been produced which can really show all the twisty turny narrow alleyways which are the main thoroughfares of Cadiz.  I marvelled at how cars and taxis could negotiate these tiny cobbled streets without knocking down the pedestrians but “shank’s pony” and motors all seemed to live in harmony.

There was an endless array of sights to tantalise and my camera was constantly busy snapping pictures here, there and everywhere.  The balconies were particulary fascinating for the bottom area curved out in intricate design.  I was told that in the 18th. Century it was the fashion for ladies to wear skirts which had large rigid hoops at the hem and the railings had been designed to accommodate these.  On normal balconies the hoop would have hit the railing and risen into the air revealing a little too much of the lady’s underwear !!!!!

Miracously I found the Tavira Tower and had a ten minute wait before it opened at 10am.  In 1778 this tower had been appointed the official watchtower for the town because at that time it was the highest lookout point in the area. In general the towers were used by traders to watch for their ships returning loaded down with goods from the East and West Indies.  The door was opened punctually at 10am and I was the first customer of the day.  After paying the 5 Euro entrance fee I started the climb to the top.  Up and up and up I went with the stairs getting narrower the higher I climbed.  Eventually I reached the top parapet and ventured out to be greeted with the spectacular sight of the city’s rooftops spread out like a patchwork quilt before my eyes.  WOW.  My camera worked overtime but I cursed myself for not putting the telephoto lens in my bag before I left the cabin.  Never mind, there was more than enough to excite my imagination.  A little while later I heard some puffing and groaning and all of a sudden a man appeared through the doorway.  He told me there were two ladies following him but that they would take some time to get to the top.  Apparently these three were from the other cruise ship in port that day – The Independence of the Seas.  Cadiz was their last port of call before they headed back across the Bay of Biscay to Southampton.  Eventually with much huffing and puffing the two ladies made it to the top.  That was my cue to head down to the Camera Obscura which was one floor below.  The first show of the day was due to start in just a few minutes.  The Camera Obscura projects a movng image of the surrounding town onto a bowl shaped screen which sits in the centre of a darkened room.  The other three joined me in the room and the projectionist started the show.  It was fascinating but the part I enjoyed most of all was when the projectionist put a piece of cardboard down onto the screen and then “lifted” people up from the streets.  Of course, they would have no knowledge that they were being played with in this way.  It was rather an eerie thought to think that later in the day I might be walking the streets of Cadiz and that I might be one of the subjects being “lifted” off the screen for others amusement !!  The show came to an end and then it was off down the stairs and out into that maze of alleyways again.

I made my way back to the ship to get my telephoto lens – better late than never !!  Then on my second trip out I made for the Cathedral.  I had learned that one of the bell towers is also open to the public and that this is even higher than the Tavira Tower.  It was now mid-day and many of my co-passengers on the Oceana were now also out and about.  As I passed through the main square of town I noticed that some had found seats and had their noses firmly rooted in books.  They were all of five minutes walk from the ship and as ever I was amazed at the lack of interest that some people show in their surroundings.  Why on earth come on a cruise, visiting wonderful locations, if you are not going to show any interest in where you are?  How can they not want to explore?  Beats me !!

Soon I stood in front of the Cathedral with its two imposing bell towers.  At the base of one was a small wooden door which stood ajar.  I entered and in the dark interior found a small pay booth where I purchased my ticket for a fee of 4 Euros.  Then I started the climb but I was surprised to find that there were no steps.  The pathway up was a steep slope which went round and round and round and round.  This climb certainly got to me and it was not long before I was really huffing and puffing.  I told myself that if I could get to the top of Big Ben then I could make this.  I did – but only just !

Again at the top I was greeted with the spectacular sight of the city spread out before me.  But this time I was surrounded by the cathedral’s bells which suddenly started to chime.  As I now had my telephoto lens I was able to zoom in on some of the more interesting buildings – and to my delight I had a wonderful view of the Tavira Tower where I had been just a few hours earlier.  The climb may have puffed me but it was certainly worth the effort.

The rest of the afternoon was spent meandering through the narrow streets and soaking up the atmosphere of this Moorish town.  I noticed a street vendor selling salted nuts but he didn’t seem to be getting much custom as everyone was making for tavernas and coffee shops.  I went up and bought 1 Euro’s worth of nuts.  He was delighted and filled the paper cone to overflowing for me.  I am not certain what sort of nuts they were but they were delicious.

I was absolutely exhausted by the time I returned to Oceana in the afternoon.  I found just enough energy to go to dinner and then went to listen to the classical recital before collapsing into bed at 8.30pm.  I slept like a log.

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