The Magical Mystery Cruise - Cadiz , The Cup of Silver

I was up on deck at 6.45am to watch our arrival into Cadiz.  It was quite chilly but I nestled snugly inside my padded waistcoat with hood up to protect my ears from the strong winds.  The Cathedral and several churches were illuminated and stood out brilliantly against the bluish purple blackdrop which was the dawn sky.  As the sun rose over the horizon so my anticipation mounted.  The city looked every bit as I had imagined it – a jumble of low square white washed houses interspersed with tall watch towers of varying designs.  I could sense the Moorish feel even at a distance.

As soon as we berthed I was off down the gangplank to explore. I hoped to find the Tavira Tower which I understood was one of the few watchtowers that was open to the public and which apparently offered outstanding views of the city.  I knew roughly which direction to head in but I don’t think a map has been produced which can really show all the twisty turny narrow alleyways which are the main thoroughfares of Cadiz.  I marvelled at how cars and taxis could negotiate these tiny cobbled streets without knocking down the pedestrians but “shank’s pony” and motors all seemed to live in harmony.

There was an endless array of sights to tantalise and my camera was constantly busy snapping pictures here, there and everywhere.  The balconies were particulary fascinating for the bottom area curved out in intricate design.  I was told that in the 18^th. Century it was the fashion for ladies to wear skirts which had large rigid hoops at the hem and the railings had been designed to accommodate these.  On normal balconies the hoop would have hit the railing and risen into the air revealing a little too much of the lady’s underwear !!!!!

Miracously I found the Tavira Tower and had a ten minute wait before it opened at 10am.  In 1778 this tower had been appointed the official watchtower for the town because at that time it was the highest lookout point in the area. In general the towers were used by traders to watch for their ships returning loaded down with goods from the East and West Indies.  The door was opened punctually at 10am and I was the first customer of the day.  After paying the 5 Euro entrance fee I started the climb to the top.  Up and up and up I went with the stairs getting narrower the higher I climbed.  Eventually I reached the top parapet and ventured out to be greeted with the spectacular sight of the city’s rooftops spread out like a patchwork quilt before my eyes.  WOW.  My camera worked overtime but I cursed myself for not putting the telephoto lens in my bag before I left the cabin.  Never mind, there was more than enough to excite my imagination.  A little while later I heard some puffing and groaning and all of a sudden a man appeared through the doorway.  He told me there were two ladies following him but that they would take some time to get to the top.  Apparently these three were from the other cruise ship in port that day – The Independence of the Seas.  Cadiz was their last port of call before they headed back across the Bay of Biscay to Southampton.  Eventually with much huffing and puffing the two ladies made it to the top.  That was my cue to head down to the Camera Obscura which was one floor below.  The first show of the day was due to start in just a few minutes.  The Camera Obscura projects a movng image of the surrounding town onto a bowl shaped screen which sits in the centre of a darkened room.  The other three joined me in the room and the projectionist started the show.  It was fascinating but the part I enjoyed most of all was when the projectionist put a piece of cardboard down onto the screen and then “lifted” people up from the streets.  Of course, they would have no knowledge that they were being played with in this way.  It was rather an eerie thought to think that later in the day I might be walking the streets of Cadiz and that I might be one of the subjects being “lifted” off the screen for others amusement !!  The show came to an end and then it was off down the stairs and out into that maze of alleyways again.

I made my way back to the ship to get my telephoto lens – better late than never !!  Then on my second trip out I made for the Cathedral.  I had learned that one of the bell towers is also open to the public and that this is even higher than the Tavira Tower.  It was now mid-day and many of my co-passengers on the Oceana were now also out and about.  As I passed through the main square of town I noticed that some had found seats and had their noses firmly rooted in books.  They were all of five minutes walk from the ship and as ever I was amazed at the lack of interest that some people show in their surroundings.  Why on earth come on a cruise, visiting wonderful locations, if you are not going to show any interest in where you are?  How can they not want to explore?  Beats me !!

Soon I stood in front of the Cathedral with its two imposing bell towers.  At the base of one was a small wooden door which stood ajar.  I entered and in the dark interior found a small pay booth where I purchased my ticket for a fee of 4 Euros.  Then I started the climb but I was surprised to find that there were no steps.  The pathway up was a steep slope which went round and round and round and round.  This climb certainly got to me and it was not long before I was really huffing and puffing.  I told myself that if I could get to the top of Big Ben then I could make this.  I did – but only just !

Again at the top I was greeted with the spectacular sight of the city spread out before me.  But this time I was surrounded by the cathedral’s bells which suddenly started to chime.  As I now had my telephoto lens I was able to zoom in on some of the more interesting buildings – and to my delight I had a wonderful view of the Tavira Tower where I had been just a few hours earlier.  The climb may have puffed me but it was certainly worth the effort.

The rest of the afternoon was spent meandering through the narrow streets and soaking up the atmosphere of this Moorish town.  I noticed a street vendor selling salted nuts but he didn’t seem to be getting much custom as everyone was making for tavernas and coffee shops.  I went up and bought 1 Euro’s worth of nuts.  He was delighted and filled the paper cone to overflowing for me.  I am not certain what sort of nuts they were but they were delicious.

I was absolutely exhausted by the time I returned to Oceana in the afternoon.  I found just enough energy to go to dinner and then went to listen to the classical recital before collapsing into bed at 8.30pm.  I slept like a log.

The Magical Mystery Cruise - Oceana

Why have I called this the Magical Mystery Cruise?  Quite simply because at the time of embarkation I was not at all certain of where we were going to end up.  Months ago the second port of call, Tripoli in Libya, had been replaced by Alexandria in Egypt.  This was due to the troubles that were being experienced in Libya at that time.  Two weeks before departure I was informed that the ship was no longer going to be able to call at Ashdod in Israel – this time due to the troubled situation in Syria.  Then, three days before departure, I turned on the news to be greeted with the sight of riots in Alexandria and Cairo.  I tried to tell myself that this was just going to be a “storm in a teacup” but as the hours wore on it was apparent that the situation was getting worse and worse.  I tried to imagine myself viewing those magical pyramids with the sound of tear gas being fired in the background.  I tried to imagine myself wandering through the streets of Alexandria in search of the Chatby Cemeteries whilst rioters sped past me.  Neither were very happy nor very practical thoughts.  P & O were obviously going to have to replace the stops at both Alexandria and Port Said with other ports of call – but where ?  As I embarked I – and all the other passengers – had no idea at all what the final itinerary was going to be !

This is my first time on Oceana and she is certainly a lovely ship – about the same size as Arcadia but with a beautiful atrium rising up in the centre from Deck 5 to Deck 8.  The buffet style restaurant is The Plaza on Deck 14 and this is situated at the bow with the most incredible views out across the sea.  As always my very favourite part of the ship is The Prom Deck.  It is here, early in the morning and late at night, that I am able to get my exercise.  3.2 laps of the prom equate to one mile and on sea days I like to do two miles morning and evening.  When it is deserted it is the one place on board that evokes the feel of the old P & O liners which “back in the day” plied the route from UK to Hong Kong. If I squint my eyes up I can imagine those passengers from the early 1900s boarding with their leather suitcases and trunks adorned with hotel labels from exotic lands.  The ladies in their wonderful hats and fur wraps, the gentlemen in their tweeds.  Their feet would have stood on deck boards just the same as this.  They would have looked out at the vast ocean from the Prom Deck just as I do.  Here are the markings for Deck Quoits & Shuffleboard – just as they have always appeared. 

In 1909 Ellen Mary Hayes Peck wrote in her travel diary:   

Two hundred and fifty more passengers were added to the steamer list at Marseilles and henceforth the vessel was to be taxed to her utmost capacity.  Most of the passengers ere en route for a five weeks voyage to Australia, many of them were friends, and a general spirit of jollity prevailed, the decks presenting the appearance of a seaside veranda, with their tables, lounging-chairs, work baskets, and toys.  A sports committee was at once formed and games of all kinds were played (always for prizes) while a concert, dances and bridge enlivened the evening hours.

After a rather boring few hours traversing the Suez Canal she continued:

But if Nature was dull and lifeless, there was no lack of jollity on board the steamer; for the passengers were mostly English, and there were constant games or other devices for “killing time”, in which the English as a nation are so proficient.

It is just the same on board in the 21^st. century.  During the day deck games abound, lecturers expound on a variety of subjects, art, craft & dancing classes are held and the mysteries of digital cameras are explained.  Of course many just want to do nothing and that is also very exceptable.  In the evening there are classical concerts, pop concerts and musical shows – and of course there is still a Bridge Room for those who wish to play. 

During our first night at sea we hit rough weather as we approached the Bay of Biscay and half the passengers were confined to their cabins for that first full day.  I donned my wrist bands designed to prevent sea sickness and was able to explore the ship at leisure.

It was on our second day at sea that the Captain made the announcement that we had all been expecting – on the advice of the Foreign Office our calls to both Alexandria and Port Said had been cancelled.  I waited in anticipation to hear what the replacement ports would be.  I was not disappointed to hear that we would instead be visiting Valletta in Malta and Kusadasi in Turkey.  But before these intriguing places comes Cadiz, the oldest continuously inhabited town in the Western World with a history dating back 3000 years.  Watch this space !