Stormy Seas

Cagliari in Sardinia was the next scheduled port of call for Oriana.  Now this I was really looking forward to.  It was during breakfast that we made our approach to the port but the weather was fast deteriorating with torrential rain and very poor visibility.  The Sky Weather report had shown a large blue storm cloud covering the whole of Sardinia with a forecast of thunderstorms.  Never mind, I had my wet weather gear with me and I could always shelter in the shops.  But then the Captain's voice came through the speakers with an announcement - rarely a good sign at that time of the morning.  The port had two tugs standing by to guide and nudge us into position on our berth but the winds were increasing by the minute and both the pilot and the Captain decided it was far too dangerous for us to consider docking - our call at Sardinia was cancelled and we were to head back out to the relative "safety" of the sea.

The weather continued to deteriorate and by mid morning the ship was being tossed about all over the place.  For the first time ever I had to leave my cabin and find a more stable point at mid-ships on one of the upper decks.  Here the motion was a little bit less - in my cabin the waves were hammering against the porthole and that damn anchor chain was heaving back & forth in its hold on the deck below.

The dreadful stormy conditions lasted throughout the day and it wasn't until early evening that the seas began to subside.  For some reason there were very few people at dinner that night - but I was there!

Messina - revisited

May 1st. is a public holiday in Messina meaning much of the city would be closed and quiet.  Not that I minded because once again I was heading off to the old British cemetery tucked away on the outskirts of town.  On my last visit I had quite an adventure finding it but this time it was an uneventful (if rather long) walk.

As it happened the Cimitero Monumentale was the only area where life could be found!  Flower stalls loaded with colourful blooms and floral displays.  What better way for the locals to start their public holiday than by visiting departed loved ones.  

Just beyond the flower stalls can be found the street traders - African lads with their array of flea market type items spread out on sheets on the pavement.  One seemed to specialise in old, second hand IT chargers.  On I went up a narrow alleyway, past the market and seedy looking residences. A lad of African descent looked at me strangely - what was a tourist doing in this area?  His legs were dreadfully deformed like 90 degree angle brackets but he appeared to get around OK.  I smiled and said Bon Journo (or however it is spelled) and his face broke into a wide grin. 

Opposite the next lot of flower stalls can be found the side entrance to the Cimitero Monumentale - and just inside the gate can be found Cimitero Inglese.  A plaque proudly announces that King George V and Queen Mary had visited in 1925.   

What most visitors would not know is that it was not actually THIS cemetery that the royal couple had visited because prior to WWII the old English and French cemeteries were located on the spur of land opposite to where Oriana is berthed.  At one time this spur was also home to the Citadella, Naval barracks, Officers quarters and Salvatore Fort.  For 20 + years from WWI the Sicilians tried to reclaim the land where the cemeteries were located.  They wanted to expand their port but naturally the British Government would not hear of British graves being moved.  Come WWII and the Sicilians seized their chance.  In the midst of war they exhumed all the graves and moved surviving headstones and monuments to a quiet corner of Cimitero Monumentale.  By the time the British Government became aware of this after the war it was far too late - fate accompli.  

On my last visit in December 2011 it had been dismal and wet making the ground quite dangerous underfoot.  However I managed to take a few photos and vowed to return should I ever visit Messina again.  As I stepped inside on 1st. May 2018 I was saddened at the sight that greeted me - completely overgrown and even more inaccessible. 

Stepping carefully I again did what I could but after 30 minutes the mosquitoes realised that fresh blood was around and my right hand became the target.  I hadn't even considered that mossies would be a problem in May and had no repellant or soothing lavender oil.  I retreated back to town - again marvelling at the picturesque buildings and oranges growing in the street.

On the way back to the ship I noticed some of the larger shops were beginning to open.  I desperately needed to spend a penny and popped into a department store named "Coin".  Having searched all around the ground floor and all around the first floor I came to the conclusion that loos were not provided.  But wait a moment there is a floor guide and "Toilet" is shown as being on the ground floor.  Having circuited the floor another three times I eventually found the toilet hidden away behind a changing room.  By this time it was a life saver!

The rest of the walk took me past the main square which was abuzz with tourists waiting for the Noon hour when the Cathedral's bell tower (built after the 1908 earthquake) would spring into action with a series of figures dancing around its many floors.  

But I had seen this back in 2011 so headed straight for the ship - with a very quick visit into a tiny little jewellers which I had discovered on the first trip.  The owner, who makes all his own jewellery, is very proud of his heritage displaying photos of his grandfather and father who made jewellery before him.  Last time I purchased a necklace made of lava from Mount Etna but this time there was nothing which appealed.

At tea time I stood on the top deck and marvelled at the view as Oriana glided past the Madonna Monument and out through the Straits of Messina. Such magical moments.

The Swell in Sorrento

 

Sorrento was another tender port and as there were many excursions due to be tendered ashore before the independent passengers I expected at least a one hour wait after collecting my tender ticket.  As it happened the wait turned into three and a half hours - the reason was the height of the swell in Sorrento Bay.  Three tenders managed the trip from ship to shore but as the minutes ticked by it proved more and more dangerous for passengers to make that "leap of faith" from ships pontoon to bobbing tender.  The Captain announced that tender operations would cease until such time as conditions improved.  Every 20 minutes a tender manned by 3 crew would draw alongside down at Deck 3 to test conditions but after a few minutes it always retreated back to a safe distance in the bay. 

At noon, just as I had loaded my plate with noodles and Sea Bass it was announced that conditions had improved and tendering was about to begin.  Three mouthfulls of sea bass and I was off.  Of course, the majority of excursions had been cancelled and those passengers now all rushed to obtain independent tender tickets - it would be another 2 hours before they would be lucky enough to disembark.  Fortunately I was on the third tender out.  

Even though conditions had improved it still took 4 crew members to assist each passenger in the "leap of faith" and once aboard the little lifeboat we were like a cork in a huge ocean.  I thought to myself that if I could cope with these conditions without being seasick then I deserved a medal - but nothing ventured, nothing gained.   I tried to remember what I had read - focus on the horizon - easier said than done as the boat gallantly tried to cope with the swell.  First the horizon was way up high, then it was way down low - I hung on tight and prayed.  Needless to say the voyage was completed quite safely and I awarded myself a medal for not even feeling queezy (although I was quite scared!).

The city of Sorrento sits atop a high, high cliff overlooking the harbour.  P&O provided a shuttle bus for the climb up the hill (£4 single journey for Saver Fare customers) but if I ever go again I must use the lift/elevator which has been installed in the past few years (1 euro single fare).

Sorrento proved to be an interesting, bustling city with a main pedestrianised shopping area and many narrow side lanes leading off to the Old Quarter - full of delightful boutiques and souvenir shops.  

I only had time for a quick whiz around but it was enough to capture the colour and flavour:

I ended up in A. Gargiulo & Jannuzzi a large shop specialising in marquetry, linen, ceramics and Antica Murrina jewellery from Venice.  This just happens to be my favourite jewellery so I had a wonderful 30 mintues marvelling at the array available.  The young lady serving at this particular counter turned out to be a British expatriate and we had a long chat about her life in Italy with her Italian boyfriend and about my life as an expatriate in Hong Kong.  I purchased a delightful peach and light blue Murano glass bead necklace which I shall treasure just as much as the other pieces which I have acquired in the past. 

Not being prepared to shell out another £4 for the bus ride down the hill I walked.  A very easy descent - apart from the mad Italian drivers who career at speed along the narrow roads.

At the landing stage P&O had provided iced tea and cold water, and handed out cooling face cloths for those of us queing for the return tender.   How I would have loved to have had 2-3 days to explore this lovely city - never mind, at least I had managed 2-3 hours which was a lot better than nothing.

Over the Ligurian Sea to Santa Margherita

This was the port many of us had been waiting for - a very pretty, charming place bursting with character - or so we thought.

I was awoken at 6.30am by the sound of the anchor chain dragging across a lower deck (right beneath my cabin).  The clanking went on and on and on as each link of the thick chain reverberated against the deck as the anchor slipped slowly to the seabed.  Never will I take a "Saver" fare again as these worst cabins are definitely reserved for the solo traveller who books at the last minute.  I live and learn.

This was a tender port with Oriana being anchored way offshore and using her own lifeboats to gradually ferry us all ashore.

I collected my tender ticket (No 179) at 9am and waited 50 minutes whilst all those on excursions were taken off first.  The Captain had warned us that local speed boats liked to play games with tenders from cruise liners by cutting in front of them at speed thus creating a wake which would rock the little tenders unmercifully.  As we set off I spotted a speed boat lying in wait in the distance - true enough, being timed to perfection it cut in front of us right in the middle of the bay.  Our little boat was sent on a joy ride as it pitched up and down over the wake.  I don't think that is a very friendly way to greet visitors, in fact I don't think I am going to like Santa Margherita after all.

Having landed safely I ambled around for a couple of hours but was so disappointed.  The decorated buildings were very pretty

but the town in general had very little character, just over priced cafes and restaurants.  

The only good thing I found was a tiny WC tucked away in the base of an old medieval fortification on the waterfront.  It was operated by an enterprising gentleman who collected 50 cents off every patron.  He then offered up a box of tissues indication that I was allowed to take 2 tissues with me into the loo.  That was the best 50 cents that I spent all day - in fact it was the only 50 cents that I spent in Santa Margherita. 

A quiet afternoon was called for.  I had no interest in music around the pool so found myself a lovely quiet spot on The Prom Deck and settled down to listen to an audio book.  So relaxing.  RB Digital, provided through my local library, has proved a wonderful resource.  Check out an audio book online, down load it to smart phone/tablet/computer and then listen to it wherever you are in the world - as long as you are still within the 3 week loan period.  A bit like BBC iPlayer - download a programme/series before a holiday and then watch it on laptop whilst away. There are many advantages to the digital age.

After dinner, as we glided over a perfectly calm sea, I had an hour on The Prom Deck just as the sun was about to set.  So beautiful.

The cabaret this evening was Ben Makisi a tenor from Wellington, New Zealand who now lives in Portishead (just up the road from me in Somerset!).  Wonderful entertainer, especially with his songs from the South Pacific. 

The French Riviera - Toulon and La Seyne Sur Mer

No shuttle bus here but a shuttle boat instead!

I had no great expectations for Toulon but I was pleasantly surprised.  It is home to the French navy so the port area was full of large ships, but the harbour was abuzz with sailing yachts their masts all lined up with military precision as if on parade.  

As usual I headed off up the back streets, the tall pastel coloured buildings towering above making the alleyways appear even narrower than they actually were.  

Every now and then the streets open up into a square and every square in Toulon sports an ornate water fountain - just right for taking the weight off ones feet.

And don't forget to look up because there, tucked away high up on walls, can be found tiny religious statues.

Quite by chance I fell across the morning market.  Oh boy, the scent of Herbs de Provence and the smell of fresh fruit, salad and vegetables.  Again I despair at the UK.  How healthily one could eat if you lived here.  As the fruit and veg stalls petered out so the clothes stalls took over.  The very last stall (or the first depending on direction) was stacked with "Made in Italy" fashion - exactly the styles and lables that I used to be able to get in Weston until the tiny boutique closed its doors due to rising rents.  The stall was run by a gentleman of perhaps Turkish or Egyptian descent.  He indicated that all winter type clothes could be had at a discount due to the fact that summer was fast approaching.  He spoke little English and I spoke no French but he pointed at the sun and then at the rack of woolly clothes and we understook each other perfectly - working in Hong Kong and using sign language in the street markets certainly helped!  But it was the summer clothes that caught my attention - light as a feather, delicately coloured and fashioned to disguise bulging midrifts.  Perfect.  I purchased a top and a dress and was told that I was "Tres Joli" - I hope that meant "very happy" because I certainly was.

After lunch I headed out again, but this time for a walk to the local town of La Seyne Sur Mer.  A leisurely 15 minute stroll along a well marked route to "Centrale Town".  It was now siesta time so the back streets slumbered, the little shops were closed and a piano sat quietly remembering the days when it was the centre of attention.  Just right for snapping photos here, there and everywhere.  

At one point, whilst standing in the middle of a narrow street, I was aware of a car coming to a halt behind me.  I was about to jump out of its way but the driver smiled and waited patiently whilst I snapped my shot - he seemed delighted that a tourist should want to take a photo of his street.  Most cruise line passengers never give a thought to walking around the local area.  I thanked him - Merci, Merci and he smiled broadly.  

Now it was time for my own siesta back aboard Oriana.  The latest adaptation of "Murder on the Orient Express" lulled me to sleep in the cabin.  No reflection on the production as the characterisation and acting was first rate - I was just shattered.  I revived just enough to enjoy the evening cabaret - Rebecca Miles and her electric harp.

Ambling along La Rambla

 

My morning was spent ambling along La Rambla - early before all the cafe's and eateries had opened.  So many interesting buildings.  

How I wish I could have been here 100 years ago when this building housed a shop selling Far Eastern parasols, umbrellas and beautiful fans.  In the 21st. Century its only the facade which acknowledges its past.  

A little further on a lady leans provacatively over a balcony - advertising the Museum of Erotica.

The market is a riot of colour - how dull, dismal and tasteless our supermarkets are in comparison.

 
This is how strawberries should look - not the unripe red and white things we have to suffer in April.  The growers must shout "Hooray for Britain - the only ones fool enough to want our rubbish".

A black mark for Barcelona is that it is one of the few ports which does not believe in handing out good free street maps to its visitors.  The only free map available was that from the Hop On/Hop Off bus company which naturally proved absolutely useless as a walker's street map.  At the top of La Rambla is that fabulous department store, El Corte Ingles.  Fabulous for all sorts of reasons not least of which is that they provide good loos without having to lash out on buying coffee or tea.  As usual I am blown away by their stunning fashion - why oh why are we so dowdy in England.  Thank goodness I popped my credit card in my bag today!

Then I venture into the narrow alleyways of the Old Quarter.  More humorous figures on balconies

bridged archways over the streets

even a shop selling marionettes (no I MUST NOT!).  

Back in the 1950s when just 10 I had noticed a few marionettes hanging high up in an old shop in Brighton.  Full of character, their faces old and wrinkled, their bodies moving slightly as the breeze wafted in through the open door.  They had me mesmerised, but money was tight and there was no way I was allowed to purchase such unnecessary items.  The thought of those puppets stayed with me throughout my life.  Whilst in Hong Kong I discovered old Chinese Puppets - they came back to the UK with me.  A Venetian puppeteer advertised his marionettes online - a couple were made especially for me and winged their way to the UK one Christmas.  Obsessions are all part of my Aspergers Syndrome - hey ho, we are all different.

No way I can get lost on my way back to the ship because Christopher Columbus points the way.

At the sailaway that evening I met K....., who in her youth was a runner, played hockey and served in the army.  An injury during a hockey match left her crippled for life and her mobility decreases with every passing year.  But she tries to stay positive and gets around with the aid of two crutches.  A couple of years ago she lost her daughter to cancer - what tragic stories I hear.  This is her first cruise - I do hope she enjoys it.