Bergen the beautiful

Arcadia was berthed in the commercial docks on the outskirts of the city so we had to catch a shuttle bus into town. I was up very bright and early and was apparently only the third person to leave the ship. It was my intention to get to the funicular railway early as I had heard that tremendous queues build up later in the morning. I managed to catch the 9am tram and found that there were only 10 of us on board. There was a Japanese couple in the seats at the very front and I did not envy them their choice. Yes, they would have spectacular views but I knew that all they would see beneath them would be a sheer drop – not the sort of view I would want to have so soon after breakfast ! Then the doors closed and off we went higher and higher up the mountain. We rose right up into the clouds and when we reached the top – yes you have guessed it – we could not see a thing. All the spectacular view which Bergen is famous for from The Floyen was masked in mist. I commisserated with a young German couple who had just come in on The Aida and we all decided that the mist was bound to clear and we just had to be patient.

I took myself off on an hour’s hike around The Floyen through the pine forest. The dew was still on the trees, the smell of pine filled the air and all around was absolute silence. It was wonderful. At one point I passed a lake and spotted a young man packing up his camping gear. He had obviously spent the night in this beautiful place.

Back at the funicular station I found the mist was starting to clear and gradually the view emerged. There was Arcadia on the outskirts whilst at the berths in the centre of town were the smaller ships - The Aida and Fred Olsen’s Black Watch. By this time the carriages coming up the mountain were full to capacity with every car having about 10 standing passengers as well as those seated. I had obviously chosen wisely by getting up early.

I had an exhausting day wandering around Bergen. In and out of the old wooden buildings along The Bryggen, round the harbour and round the markets. Oh dear, there were those stalls selling furs again – Arctic Fox, Mink, Cayote, Reindeer not to mention the common furry rabbit. I went up and stroked them and went away. I returned and went away again. I returned again and again. What put me off buying was again the commercial aspects of the trade. Is there not a Sami shop in Bergen? If there was I could not find it. Then by chance I happened across a stall tucked away from all the others and this did have a few furs as well as lots of souvenirs. I chatted to the young Roumanian guy who was working on the stall and he told me that the owner was a Laplander – “look can you see how his face is broader and his eyes narrower?”. I could indeed. Now, Laplanders are in fact Sami people but one should never refer to them as Laps as this is extremely rude. “Oh, have I found a Sami Stall”– I asked. It appears that I had. Did I buy one of those beautiful furs? I leave the answer to your imagination.

Olden - a peaceful haven

The day dawned overcast, cold and wet which did not bode well as I was booked on an excursion which was to take in a boat trip on Lovatnet Lake to view Kjenndalen Glacier. Thank goodness when I had booked my excursions weeks ago I had not gone with my first instinct which was to join the trekking team for a walk on Briksdal Glacier.

Our small boat set off up the lake and our “Captain” informed us that there was a sun deck which could accommodate 10 people if any of us wanted to weather the storm outside. I found myself a seat at the rear of the boat but it was not long before I was up and about – peeping my head out to see if there were any photo opportunities. The clouds swirled around the mountains and the rain came down in torrents, however after 30 minutes I decided to brave the elements and go up to the “sun” deck. This entailed negotiating a 6 rung ladder fixed to the side of the cabin – but what the hell. I clambered up to find that there was just one other person up top. Despite the mist and rain the scenery was majestic. Oh to see it in winter when it would all be covered in snow – unfortunately, access is not possible later in the year as the roads are just not navigable. I might add that returning down the slippery runged ladder was even more interesting than trying to clamber up it!!

A coffee break was provided at Kjenndalstova and we were treated to delicious waffles which came with homemade jam and cream. My low fat diet was forgotten but boy did I enjoy – that must be the first time in 18 months that I have tasted cream. We then went off to view the Glacier which was shaped something like an octopus with arms of ice protruding out from a central circle. Portions of it were the most vivid turquoise - a little like those ice blue eyes of the husky dogs at The Wilderness Centre.

By the afternoon the rain had eased and I spent a couple of hours wandering around the tiny village of Olden. I discovered the pretty wooden church and the fragrance of pine filled the inside. At each end of the wooden pews were wooden carvings resembling the horns of reindeers. I bet this would be a wonderful place to hear midnight mass on Christmas Eve. I can almost hear the sleigh bells ringing.

After wandering for about a mile the sun came out for a few brief moments and I looked back to see Arcadia reflected in the clear cool waters of the fjord. Out came the camera and the result is the photo at the top of this Blog post.

Trondheim - City of Timber

This is the first place on my trip which has that medieval air about it. I struck out on my own today in search of the Old Bridge over the River Nid. It was easy to find but to my surprise it was not the bridge which captured my attention but the old wooden wharves which stand serenely at the waters edge. The river was calm and when the sun came out the reflections in the water were quite magical. Where did the the buildings stop and the reflections start?

My little camera worked overtime all day long as I found vantage point after vantage point with each shot being better than the last. At one point I heard a lady asking if I were praying for a miracle. I had become oblivious to everything (and everyone) around me and at that particular point in time was crouching on the ground trying to compose a shot through a huge iron ring ! I looked up to find a couple of Chinese American tourists behind me. I laughed and said a miracle would always be welcome but I was actually just trying to get an unusual picture. We got into conversation and I found that they had just sailed in on the Holland American Line ship which was berthed in the harbour. They were from California. The lady thought it very brave of me to go off on a holiday such as this on my own and to wander round strange cities on my own but I assured her that I was probably very much safer in Norway than I would be back at home in the suburbs of London. I bade them farewell and headed off for the climb up to the Fortress.

I found my way through quaint narrow back streets and stumbled across something unique to Trondheim – a bicycle lift. The road was far too steep to have cycled up and as a large proportion of the population have bikes it seems to be a very sensible invention. Thankfully I did not have to work out how to use it because I only had my two legs to worry about. Somehow or another they got me to the top of the hill and with a large amount of huffing & puffing I reached the sturdy white fortress which dominates the hill. Kristiansen Fort was built in the 17^th. Century and saved the city from the conquest by Sweden in 1718. Under German occupation from 1940 to 1945 the fort was used as a place of execution for members of the Norwegian Resistance.

Back down in the City Centre I came across a bronze statue of a plump lady carrying shopping bags. Apparently many years ago a woman came to town to work as a housemaid. She was often seen in the market square and when anyone greeted her she would answer “G’dagen” (good day). I am not certain what else she would have been expected to say but this is the reason given for the artist, Tone Thiis Schetne, creating the statue. Perhaps if I return one day in the future I will find a statue of myself praying for a miracle!!!!

After a full day of walking I returned to the ship with very sore feet.